The 1920's & 40's with its economic plunges & WWII; found women filling roles that would normally be men's jobs. Going to work in factories & munitions plants they made trousers acceptable as womens wear. In a time of rationing & uncertainty the movies provided a glimpse into a world of fantasy & glamour. Actresses were style icons along with women like the Duchess of Windsor; renowned for her collection of bold, unusual jewelry.
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The Arts and Crafts movement was a transitional period between the Art Nouveau and Art Deco eras. You can often see elements of both styles in a single piece of jewelry. Arts & Crafts was more than just a design style; it was a political and philosophical movement. Devotees of this art form interested themselves in social reform and individual rights. The style was a revolt against new technology they felt was destroying craftsmanship. It was their view that the imperfections and inconsistencies of hand-made pieces increased the beauty of a piece. The overall design was of primary importance, any stones or precious metals used were secondary. Designs were generally taken from nature and were often made to be abstract or symbolic. In metal-worked pieces, the craftsman would sometimes hammer the silver to heighten the hand-made look.
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Art Nouveau design was first developed in France during the era called "La Belle Epoche" (The Beautiful Time). Coinciding with the Victorian era, it's a style intended as a statement against the industrialization of jewelry making. Designs are curvy, fluid; often of nude female figures, heads, insects, crescents & common plants. The designs were sometimes intended to evoke mystical symbolism. Jewelry of this era was considered very avant garde for the time & it took a bold person who dared to wear it.
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Lasting about a decade, the Edwardian era (named after England's King Edward VII) was a mix of styles and tastes. The era was short but jewelry pieces can easily be found. New technology allowed faster manufacture of items, reduced costs & made jewelry available to more people than ever before. Although the Edwardian era began in the late Victorian Era, the styles of Art Nouveau & Arts & Crafts continued through the reign of Edward.
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Before her death in 1901, Queen Victoria was coaxed out of seclusion to celebrate her Jubilees. The Golden and Diamond Jubilees were nationwide celebrations of her long reign and there is still an abundance of jewelry to be found made to commemorate the events.
Several eras of jewelry design occurred in overlapping time frames (sort of sub-divisions of "Victorian Jewelry") and continued into the Edwardian Era. Art Nouveau jewelry (roughly 1880-1914) and Arts & Crafts (1890-1914) are such unique styles that they're discussed individually, on separate pages.
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